Wednesday Morning, August 26, 2009
North Fork American River ~ More Sun
Charlotte: Early Wednesday Morning: LONG night last night! Our bodies have really taken a beating. We are sore beyond belief. Even with 4 Advil I didn't sleep much because my whole body is sore and every time I moved the pain woke me up. I can't believe I didn't bring any Bounce Back. I thought this was going to be an easy stroll down the middle of the river. Instead, it is an experience in torture. The river is strewn with boulders most of the way - platter size to banana box size, slippery, laying at different angles. We made our way slowly with the raft trying to keep our footing but we have both fallen repeatedly. We are bruised and sore. Add to that, walking a mile or more each day in water that varies from knee deep to chest deep or even deeper. It doesn't seem far unless you are in the water. The deep pools are the hardest. The river is low and there is very little current, so we hang on to the raft and try to paddle our way through. Often there is a stiff wind that blows us in the opposite direction.
We learned the first day to stay near the bank so that we can find some footing on the bedrock once in awhile, when it's shallow enough to reach with our feet. It is very strenuous going through the deepest pools. Then there are the rapids - boulder fields with swifter moving water, pushing you along and you can't see where you are stepping. We portaged around a long series of rapids yesterday and a long pool on Monday. We made it through 2 areas of rapids and that was enough yesterday. We stopped at a less than ideal camp spot. We were exhausted. The sand was just wide enough for our bed and even that required more sand. Larry hauled several loads of sand in the gold pan. There was absolutely no shade of any kind. We didn't have any shade until after 6 PM. I am guessing that it was up in the 90's. There were no flat rocks to put our gear on. The night before we had some nice flat bedrock. Last night our bedroom was a long narrow area of sand, maybe 3 feet across and then a straight up rock wall that retained the heat of the sun long into the night. We were about 6 feet from the water. We learned not to put our bedrolls down until just before bed. The sand retains heat long into the night. This has been the most difficult and strenuous undertaking of my life. Larry says the same is true for him.
There is great looking bedrock all around. Larry spent 2 hours sniping after we made camp and only came up with a few colors. He says the area has been worked hard. It seems impossible since we are so far from a road or trailhead.
Later in the morning: We've had our tea and protein bars and have decided to move out as soon as there is sun on the water. We want to get our next move over with and hopefully we'll find a better camp with some shade this afternoon. We are hoping for a nice camp spot tonight ~ shade, sandy area for sleeping, flat bedrock for gear and sitting AND some gold would be nice. We figure we are about 1/3 of the way to the bridge at Mineral Bar. I think we would stay put a couple of days if we could find a good spot.
We can see up ahead and there is another rapids and then a big bend in the river. We are going to cross the river and portage around the rapids. We are praying for an easy trek today ~ sandy bottom, even cobbles would be OK. We saw a hiker way up on the trail just after 7 this morning and amazingly, 2 runners right at nightfall last night. We feel certain they were training for the Western States 100 mile run.
Pain and agony. We're not eating much. We took our first bath in the river last evening after the sun went behind the ridge ~ COLD water! We must remember to bathe while it is still sunny. We are in the water most of the day but shampooing and cleaning up with soap felt good ...... after we got out of the river and warmed up in the summer air.
Early afternoon ~ Thank you God! Finally, we have a wonderful camping spot. We are on a long expanse of cobble beach with nice sandy areas for our bed. We are on the south side of the river but there are several shade trees on the rocky ridge above us. There is even flat bedrock for our gear. Now, if there is just some gold. Larry is off sniping.
We set out early this morning. We rafted everything across the river and then changed into boots and portaged around the rapids. We decided to hike our gear as far as we could. We ran out of bedrock and a place to walk at the bottom of a deep pool ~ maybe 15 feet deep. We were thankful to be able to miss the rapids and having to swim through another deep pool with our gear. We could see another series of rapids farther down the river. We decided to take a rest after hauling all of our gear to this spot. The grotto-like pool with it's clear, deep teal colored water was amazingly beautiful. There are big leafed plants along the far side of the pool. We could see several large bass swimming around. We decided to change back into wetsuits and river shoes so that we could float our gear across the river and then portage our gear down below the next series of rapids. It seems like alot of work but it's much easier than making our way down the rapids in the river.
After we crossed the river we could see that there was actually a series of 3 rapids and then a long riffle so we decided to hike the gear down below the riffle, which was quite a distance.
We went high and up over the bedrock. Easy does it ~ slow and steady. How do we make our way down this river? One day at a time, one stretch at a time, one step at a time. That is what we decided last night when we felt so beaten and exhausted ~ we'll just have to take it one stretch at a time and if that is too much, just one step at a time. This river trip is like a metaphor for life; you never know what is around the next bend.
It took 2 trips each to get our gear below the riffles. One trip with packs and each carrying 2 bags of gear and then one trip with the raft and a light load of gear. Out of our boots and back into wetsuits and river shoes, load the raft and we are off again. First there was a long stretch of boulders. We have discovered that in the deeper water, where we have a foothold, we can lightly push off instead of firmly placing each foot and it is much easier. At the end of the boulders was our longest stretch of deep water yet, maybe 20 feet deep, and we couldn't even see around the bend to know where it ended. Larry decided that we should hang to the right because it looked like there were some handholds in the bedrock. It was hard going for Larry - holding on to the front of the raft, his new wooden 8 foot staff and trying to find handholds on the rocks. All I could really do was hold on to the back of the raft and kick to try to help move us along. Finally, about half way through the pool Larry saw a spot where he thought he could climb up and over and pull the raft along while I stayed in the water to steady the rear of the raft. A good set of flippers would have come in handy.
He was able to finally climb out and go up and over past the first outcropping ~ I had to keep kicking out toward the middle of the river so that he could pull me and the gear downriver. The next manuver was more difficult. Larry had to climb up a fracture in the rock face like a cat, up and way over an outcropping of bedrock. The river shoes helped him with traction. I had to really push out with my legs and kick hard several times to get beyond the outcroppings at the waterline but finally he was able to pull the raft and me down the river. Once I was adrift I felt like Cleopatra on her barge. It was a little scary because I couldn't see Larry most of the time. Thank goodness for our very long rope. Larry climbed over yet another large abuttment of bedrock and I continued kicking away from the edge. Finally, Larry climbed back down to the river and got in the water because he could see that it was shallow enough for walking in the river and it was gravel. For quite a distance I wasn't able to touch the bottom so he pulled me and the raft along, like Humphey Bogart in the African Queen. This deep pool and grotto area were even more beautiful than the one we saw earlier this morning. We headed to the left bank and found our large gravel bar and wonderful campspot for tonight and this is where we have been since about 1:30.
It is very warm and I am so sleepy. I think I'll go cool off in the river and then take a nap.
Larry: Day 3 Early Morning ~ Early morning, having our cup of tea sitting with our backs against the rock wall that we slept against. Watching the sun catch the tops of the high ridges - comparing pain. Our night was semi-restless, more for Charlotte than me. I had much less trepidation about bears last night as our camp was perched right on the river with steep cliffs above.
I woke up around midnight and we had a nice conversation while watching for meteorites. My body is aching and stiff but my spirit is beginning to embrace our challenge. I guess I'd say that mentally, it's getting easier. Monday night I was filled with fear and trepidation as in, "what have I gotten us into?" And thinking whether or not we were up to this adventure. My male ego wants me to be up to any challenge, no matter how extreme .....but time has taken a toll on my body. 28 years ago, we could have waltzed down the Steven's Trail and laughed at our soreness and bruises. But today, at 58 & 68, they take on new meaning. I am going to concentrate more on the trip and less on how much gold I find. Since the gold has been disappointing so far, I'll look for the treasure of time spent well with my love.
Evening - We moved down river once again - portaging several rapids and a deep pool. I finally had to climb up and over a wall of bedrock and tow the raft through a very deep pool. The problem with those deep holes is the up river wind is much stronger than the current and our feeble kicks ....so, without any purchase on the bank or the bottom, you go upstream! We had literally prayed for an easier day with a nice camp spot and what do you know?! Around the corner appeared an ideal sandy, gravel bar with ample shade (until the late afternoon). We rejoiced over our fairly easy move and our sweet camp.
I rested for an hour or so and then went sniping. Same story - little to no gold. But, we had a marvelous day and now a super camp, time to rest and recuperate. Our water filter is a gem. With it, I can fill a 2 gallon jar in about 10 minutes and our little one liter bottle in 3. Each afternoon I fill the liter bottle with cool river water and we add lemonade powder for an afternoon treat. Do we know how to live or what!?!?
I'm sitting here looking up at the Steven's Trail. It seems like weeks ago that we were struggling our way along it, looking down on this part of the river. I'm bushed. I think that we hadn't rested enough from our barn labors to really be up for this trip. I have a residual fatigue that catches up with me by mid-afternoon.
*** I want to note here that this adventure was a result of a book that Larry purchased.
By the end of the first day I was ready to hurt the author of the book.
By the end of day 2 I wanted to hurt him and make him eat the book.
By day 3, I knew exactly what I wanted to do to him. I wanted to send him down the Steven's Trail with 70 pounds on his back and have him hike, walk, climb, swim, claw and crawl his way to the Iowa Hill Bridge. The floating part in the book sounded so easy..... "floating your gear down the river". Oh, there was soooo much more to it than that.
